18/10/2019 0 Comments "Oh Crazy Tajikistan"As we entered Kyrgyzstan from the no-mans land stretching to Tajikistan, the border guard's first words to us were 'Oh crazy Tajikistan!'. It felt like a pat on the back for getting out of that crazy country and into gentle Kyrgyzstan.
It's true, it is a bit of a crazy country compared to Kyrgyzstan where life seems immeasurably easier in comparison, and so much richer. Tajikistan has suffered from poverty brought about by civil war at the end of the Soviet Union as well as economic difficulties due to its inhospitable geography. Over 93% of the country is mountainous. It also shares a long border with Afghanistan and continues to struggle with the illicit drug trade this brings, with the value of the drugs passing through the country equivalent to 30% of its GDP. But, and there's a big one, it is by far the most beautiful country we've been to. From the moment we crossed the border, the mountains towered above us in their glory. The sheer dramatism of the nature never ceased to amaze us - ragged cliffs, raging rivers, colourful mountains, snowy peaks, barren rock-strewn pastures, and amongst this all, tiny patches of green where people make their lives. The people continued to astound us with their hospitality as well. In Tajik culture, if you see a stranger outside your house you must invite them in for tea. We lost count of the number of people who invited us in for tea, fried potatoes, tried to convince us to stay, gave us fruit, vegetables, nuts. Tajikistan may not always be an easy country to travel, you have to have patience and nerves of steel for some of the roads, but it was without a doubt the most rewarding.
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